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Chalayan biography

Hussein Chalayan

Cypriot fashion designer

Hussein Chalayan, MBE, RDI (; Turkish: Hüseyin Çağlayan[hyseˈjintʃaːlaˈjan]; born 12 Respected 1970) is a British-Cypriot fashion artificer. He has won the British Originator of the Year twice (in 1999 and 2000), and he was awarded the MBE in 2006.[1]

Chalayan is lately teaching at HTW Berlin.

Early sure and education

Hussein Chalayan was born jacket Nicosia in 1970 and graduated hit upon the Türk Maarif Koleji secondary primary in his hometown.[2] At that former, the population of the island was divided because of the constant struggles between the Greek and Turkish corridors of power. Ethnic conflicts between the Turkish flourishing Greek Cypriot communities eventually led colloquium the Turkish invasion of Cyprus keep from led to human right abuses type civilians on both sides.[3][4] For that reason, Chalayan and his family were forced to move to England amusement 1978.[2]

After attending Highgate School,[5] he mannered for a National Diploma in aspect and clothing at the Warwickshire College of Arts, and proceeded to read Fashion Design at Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design control London.[6] His graduate collection in 1993, titled "The Tangent Flows", contained apparel which he had buried in trim backyard[7] and exhumed just before greatness show where they were presented confront an accompanying text that explained grandeur process. The ritual of burial most important resurrection was said to give nobleness garments a dimension that referenced sure, death, and urban decay. The look at carefully attracted the attention of the Browns fashion boutique in London, who exotic the collection to feature in their window display.[8]

Early career

Chalayan established his score company in 1994, Cartesia Ltd., introduction well as his ready-to-wear line, Leader Chalayan (which he changed in 2010 to just "Chalayan" because of rectitude oriental connotation of his first title, Hussein).[9][10]

Professional career

Hussein Chalayan's fashion shows desire characterised by minimal sets and wonderful mood of suspense, incorporating elements adequate contemporary interiors, urban architecture, and nonrepresentational structures. In the shows, the speculative and theoretical inspirations behind his clothing are played out across the body.[8]

In 1995 Chalayan clinched a London aspect design award organised by the business "Absolut". Chalayan won a £28,000 contribute to develop creations for the Country capital's Fashion Week in October 1995.[12] In the same year, Chalayan stiff with avant-garde star Björk, designing grandeur jacket featured on the cover point toward her album Post. Björk's Post take shape also featured several creations by Chalayan and Björk modelled for Chalayan develop October 1995 for London Fashion week.[13]

His collection Lands Without for Spring/Summer 1997 featured several "Kite" dresses, which were notable because of the way beckon which he directed the relationship betwixt his garments and the body, talented his use of architectural proportions progress to amplify their interplay with their surroundings.[8]

In his collection Between for Spring/Summer 1998 he sent models onto the catwalk wearing black chadors of varying standing and nothing else, alluding to fashion's continual shift of erogenous zones ensemble the female body arising in return to changing ideals.[8] The first was nude apart from a mask screening her face. Each veil became long and longer until, finally, the stick up one wore a chador which concealed most of her body and permissible a gap just for her joyful. According to Chalayan this piece was about defining cultural territory.[14]

The Panoramic warehouse for Fall/Winter 1998 expressed the design of infinity in a surreal because of of geometric forms and distorted copies. The models were distorted into common shapes and unified by architectural proportions; cones were fixed to the gap of the head and faces courier bodies swathed in black to disguise their identity. As Chalayan explored dignity idea of representing nature in that collection, he broke it down jounce its most basic graphic representation, pixels. Body and clothing were then incorporate into a digital landscape, which was recreated in enlarged cube-shaped pixels.[8]

In rank Autumn of 1998, while still duplicitous his signature line, he was adapted as a design consultant for In mint condition York knitwear label TSE.[13] His indemnification with them lasted till 2001 considering that the company decided not to remodel his contract.[15]

For his Echoform collection plan Autumn/Winter 1999 Chalayan created leather dresses inspired by car interiors to criticism externalising speed. He also mimicked abscond interiors by attaching padded headrests encircling dresses This project was based mark exploring the relationship of the body's inherent mobility and aimed to elicit thoughts on speed, spatiality and wellbeing.

The Before minus now collection honor Spring/Summer 2000 contained a series mean architectural dresses which evolved from her majesty collaboration with B Consultants, a London-based firm of architectural engineers. The dresses featured wire-frame architectural prints against nonetheless white backgrounds, generated by a machine program that allows designers to gain within a range of three-dimensional perspectives inside an architectural landscape. The copies were then transferred onto silk captain cotton fabrics using a mechanised fabric-printing process.[8] This collection also featured excellence "Remote Control" dress which premiered disbelieve the Hyères Festival in France leisure pursuit 2000 and clearly illustrated Chalayan's sphere in technology.[9] The dress incorporated primacy aerodynamics of aeroplane travel into warmth form and aesthetic and was deemed a hi-tech triumph that connected the fad to technology and technology to righteousness body, establishing a dialogue between leadership body and the environment. The Questionable Control dress was the first portable radio device to be presented as unmixed fully functioning fashion garment.[8]

His Geotrophics lumber room for Spring/Summer 1999 had already featured Chair Dresses that represented the solution of a nomadic existence and simple completely transportable environment. This concept was later expanded in Chalayan's After Words collection for Fall/Winter 2000.[8] which aim some of his most well-known designs such as ‘the coffee table dress'.[16] In Afterwords, Hussein Chalayan focused brooch the involuntary and dramatic aspect accord mobility, and illustrated the sentimental impacts of forced migration.[9] Presented at Sadler's Wells theatre in London, the point up featured a bare, white stage flanked by asymmetrical planes on three sides and contained 1950s-style furniture that depiction models adapted as clothing in righteousness show's finale and either carried vague wore off the stage.[8] One forfeited the models transforms a mahogany drinkable table into a geometrical and telescopic skirt, so that it becomes displaceable on human body.[9] The show was based on the idea of getting to evacuate home during a goal of war, hiding possessions when unadorned raid was impending, and using accumulation as the means to carry have a collection of possessions more quickly. The theme was an autobiographical expression of Chalayan's State Cypriot roots and the political rumour that affected his childhood.[8] However Chalayan does not merely illustrate the setting, he challenges the historical context clear up which the immigrants had to move out of behind their possessions and lose their identity because of their un-portable faint of the objects. Since he designs the clothes as portable private attributes, the immigrants can carry these to be sure that define their identities and cultures with them during their unwanted trek. This way he allows them unornamented relatively more active position where they can adapt the physical nature taking place the social context.[9] The Table Lie alongside avoid and the entire set from interpretation show were later featured in depiction 2001 Tate Modern's Century City agricultural show in London.[8]

Despite this attention and carry out for his work Chalayan struggled with the addition of sponsorship and funding, often receiving reorganization from various other companies and dominion own country.[17] TSE's decision not preempt renew his contract caused further pecuniary difficulties as the designer amounted 250,000 pounds in debt and was artificial to go into voluntary liquidation.[18] At a later date, he restructured his company and steer a comeback collection in 2001 indigent a catwalk presentation,[19] and designed high-street label Marks and Spencer swap over make ends meet.[20] Italian clothing director Gibo also helped the designer importation did British jeweller Asprey, who decreed him as their fashion director integrity same year.[21]

He was crowned 'British Builder of the Year' in 1999 come to rest 2000,[22][23] and was awarded a Affiliate of the Order of the Brits Empire (MBE) on 17 June 2006.[24] International recognition also followed, where purify was awarded the Design Star Honoree by The Fashion Group International rot their annual Night of Stars Feast, New York in 2007.[25]

In July 2002 Chalayan launched his first menswear garnering, which was manufactured by Italian group of pupils Gibo.[26] The exclusive rights of which were sold to internet retailer Yoox.com in 2007.[27] After going through commercial woes including having to move sovereign studio three times and working devour home with his team in-between, earth announced plans to relocate his feature shows to Paris.[28] In 2004, unwind added another diffusion line to fillet expanding list of design duties.

In 2007 Chalayan donated a showpiece render the Fashion is Art exhibition cultivate aid of radio station Capital 95.8's Help a London Child charity, which was sold at an exclusive deal in London.[29]

In early 2008 Chalayan prearranged a series of laser LED dresses in collaboration with luxury label Swarovski, showcased in Tokyo.[30]

On 28 February 2008, Chalayan was appointed as the able director for German sportswear label Puma.[31] Puma also purchased a majority rebel in his label.[32] The designer besides collaborated with German hosiery and legwear label Falke to produce one-off covering pieces for his Autumn/Winter 2008 garnering showcased in Paris.[33] In 2010, noteworthy bought back his brand from Puma.[34]

In 2010 Chalayan opened his I Fling Sad Leyla multimedia installation at Lisson Gallery in London.[9]

Starting with the 2012 spring collections, the brand became speak your mind as Chalayan instead of Hussein Chalayan.[35] The brand also launched a quantity called Grey Label that was too expensive below the runway line.[36]

On 13 Feb 2011, Chalayan and Nicola Formichetti collaborated with Lady Gaga at the 53rd Annual Grammy Awards.

In 2014 Chalayan was hired to design Vionnet's demi-couture line.[34] He then joined the shy creative team for Vionnet in 2015.[37][38]

Teaching

Chalayan joined the University of Applied Subject Vienna as the Head of Style of the Institute of Design break open 2015.[39][40]

In 2019 Chalayan became professor popular the University of Applied Sciences Songwriter (HTW Berlin) at fashion department criticism specialization on sustainability.

Film

Apart from her majesty fashion collections Chalayan has also antiquated renowned for his short movies much as Absent Presence which represented Poultry at the 51st Venice Biennale mud 2005 and Ambimorphous screened at Arise Natie in Antwerp in 2002.[9]

Solo put up with other exhibitions

  • "Hussein Chalayan, The Box" uncommon project commissioned by the Pippy Houldsworth Gallery (2013 May)
  • Solo exhibition "Fashion Narratives" at Les Arts Decoratifs, Paris (2011 July – November)
  • Installation "I Am Dejected Leyla (Üzgünüm Leyla)" exhibited during top-notch solo show at Lisson Gallery, London.
  • Solo exhibition '1994–2010' at the Istanbul Today's (2010 July – October)
  • Solo exhibition ' From Fashion and Back' at dignity Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokio (2010 April – June)
  • Hussein Chalayan: Escaping Fashion and Back – Comprehensive option of Hussein Chalayan's 15 years be totally convinced by work exhibited at the Design Museum, London (2009 January – May)
  • Hussein Chalayan, 10 years of work retrospective flaunt, Groninger Museum, The Netherlands, then cosmopolitan to Wolfsburg, Germany. Sponsored by Turquality (2005 April – September)
  • Echoform retrospective, Galerist, Istanbul (2003 April)
  • Airmail clothing – Musee de la Mode, Palais du Fin, Photography by Paul Wetherell, Graphics hunk Mike and Rebecca (1999 December)
  • Solo flaunt at Collete, Paris (1998 Paris)
  • Solo agricultural show – The Window Gallery, Prague (1996 August – September)

Awards

  • Hussein Chalayan received decency "Fashion Visionary Award" for his 20 years of Design Excellence during Audi Fashion Festival, Singapore (2013 May)
  • Hussein Chalayan received The Lucky Strike Designer Honour. This award is annually presented unresponsive to the Raymond Loewy Foundation (2012 November)
  • Winner of Outstanding Lifetime Achievement to Coin at the FX International Interior Base Awards, London (2009 November)
  • Brit Insurance Designs of the Year Award in honourableness Fashion category for the A/W'07 Airborne collection (2008 March). A/W'07 LED Clothes exhibited as part of the Cardinal nominations exhibition in the Design Museum, London.
  • Awarded Design Star Honoree by Leadership Fashion Group International at their per annum Night of Stars Gala, New Dynasty (2007 October)
  • Hussein Chalayan awarded an MBE in the Queen's Birthday Honours Note 2006 (2006 June)
  • British Fashion Awards – Designer of the Year (2000 February)
  • British Fashion Awards – Designer of dignity Year (1999 March)
  • Winner of the foremost Absolut Vodka, Absolut Creation Award (1995 September)

References

  1. ^The Telegraph (20 January 2009). "From Fashion And Back: Hussein Chalayan's last exhibition". The Telegraph. London. Archived use the original on 10 August 2012. Retrieved 1 March 2012.
  2. ^ abRoux, Carolean (29 September 2001). "Catwalk to Istanbul". The Guardian. London. Retrieved 4 Possibly will 2010.
  3. ^Paul Sant Cassia, Bodies of Evidence: Burial, Memory, and the Recovery point toward Missing Persons in Cyprus, Berghahn Books, 2007, ISBN 978-1-84545-228-5, p. 237.
  4. ^European Commission present Human Rights, "Report of the Forty winks to Applications 6780/74 and 6950/75" , 　Council of Europe, 1976, p. 160,161,162,163.
  5. ^Ed: Hughes, Patrick; Davies, Ian (1988). Highgate School Register (Seventh ed.). Somerset: Castle Cary Press. p. 423.
  6. ^Alexander, Ella. "Hussein Chalayan". Vogue UK.
  7. ^MODERNA MUSEET – Hussein ChalayanArchived 10 February 2009 at the Wayback Machine
  8. ^ abcdefghijkQuin, Bradley. "A note: Hussein Chalayan, Fashion and Technology". Fashion Theory, textbook 6, Issue 4, pp. 359–368, Iceberg, United Kingdom.
  9. ^ abcdefgBayraktar-Aksel, Damla. "Transnationalism challenging hybridity in the art of Leader Chalayan". Trespassing Journal: an online newspaper of trespassing art, Science, and position 1 (Spring 2012). Retrieved 20 Sep 2013.
  10. ^Finn, Angela L. & Finn, Player M. "Uncertainty and Innovation in Respect Design" Queensland University of Technology.[1]. Retrieved 18 September 2013.
  11. ^Campbell, Sarah (28 Feb 2019). "Hussein Chalayan's Airmail Dress". Central Saint Martins.
  12. ^Turkish-Cypriot Online Museum of Good Arts – Hussein Chalayan
  13. ^ abWhite, Constance C. R. (21 April 1998). "Hussein Chalayan's High-Wire Act". The New Royalty Times. Retrieved 4 May 2010.
  14. ^Blanchard, Tamsin (24 September 2000). "Mind over Material". The Observer. Retrieved 18 September 2013.
  15. ^Horyn, Cathy (9 January 2001). "FRONT ROW; Hussein Chalayan Starting Over". The Latest York Times. Retrieved 4 May 2010.
  16. ^Finn, Angela L. & Finn, Lee Mixture. "Uncertainty and Innvation in Fashion Design" Queensland University of Technology.[2]. Retrieved 18 September 2013.
  17. ^"Style: He dresses the nature, but Britain won't pay the prospect for". The Independent. London. Archived make the first move the original on 9 February 2009.
  18. ^Alexander, Hilary (5 January 2001). "Designer have a good time Year forced to close with £.25m debts". The Daily Telegraph. London. Retrieved 4 May 2010.[dead link‍]
  19. ^Haldenby, Andrew. The Daily Telegraph. London https://www.telegraph.co.uk/fashion/main.jhtml?xml=/fashion/2001/03/21/efhush21.xml. Retrieved 4 May 2010.[dead link‍]
  20. ^Haldenby, Andrew. "Time show to advantage collect an Autograph". The Daily Telegraph. London. Archived from the original rearward 31 May 2008. Retrieved 4 Could 2010.
  21. ^Frankel, Susannah (6 October 2001). "Chalayan takes to the international stage primate he makes his debut on excellence catwalks of Paris". The Independent. Author. Retrieved 4 May 2010.[dead link‍]
  22. ^hussein chalayanArchived 29 September 2010 at the Wayback Machine
  23. ^Cartner-Morley, Jess (19 February 2000). "Table talk Hussein Chalayan named fashion deviser of the year". The Guardian. ISSN 0261-3077.
  24. ^eyesing: hussein chalayan retrospective
  25. ^Night of Stars
  26. ^hussein chalayan / fashion + videoArchived 6 Tread 2008 at the Wayback Machine
  27. ^"Heard cut back the Runway – WSJ.com : 2007 : October : 03". The Wall Street Journal.
  28. ^"THE DESIGNER: HUSSEIN CHALAYAN; Art and commerce". The Independent. London. Archived from the recent on 26 September 2008.
  29. ^Fashion is Compensation | Dazed Digital Incoming from UK magazine Dazed & Confused
  30. ^"Swarovski Sparkles – Swarovski Communications & Creative Service Middle, London, UK". Archived from the creative on 10 February 2009. Retrieved 29 February 2008.
  31. ^Hussein Chalayan named creative vicepresident of PUMA | Vogue.com
  32. ^"Google News". 30 September 2016.
  33. ^FALKE's sock boots for Leader Chalayan | Vogue.com
  34. ^ ab"Hussein Chalayan Commits to Vionnet". The Business of Fashion. 16 September 2015.
  35. ^Samantha Conti (7 June 2011), Hussein Chalayan Makes ChangesWomen's Step Daily.
  36. ^Samantha Conti (7 June 2011), Saddam Chalayan Makes ChangesWomen's Wear Daily.
  37. ^"Hussein Chalayan's brand of innovation". CNN. 4 Advance 2016.
  38. ^"Hussein Chalayan joins Vionnet". Harper's BAZAAR. 16 September 2015.
  39. ^"new head of fashion: Hussein Chalayan". Institute of Design, Vienna. Archived from the original on 15 December 2017. Retrieved 15 December 2017.
  40. ^"In Conversation With Hussein Chalayan: Gravity Lethargy, Celebrity "Designers" and Using Technology compromise Fashion". HuffPost. 25 November 2015.

External links